Tudor Watches: Purpose-Built Swiss Watchmaking with a Story to Tell

At Belmont Watches, we love brands that put the work in. The ones that stay true to what a watch is supposed to be. Something reliable, functional, and made with purpose. That is exactly what you get with Tudor.

Whether you are looking at a vintage Submariner from the 1960s or the latest Black Bay GMT, there is a clear thread of integrity in everything Tudor makes. It is tool watch design with just enough style, backed by real history and use in the field. For collectors, there is a lot to appreciate here and even more to wear.

Born from Rolex, Built for Adventure

Tudor was founded in 1926 when Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, wanted to offer a more affordable watch without cutting corners on quality. His idea was simple. Create a timepiece that could handle what a Rolex could, but at a price more people could reach.

Early Tudors shared cases, crowns, and bracelets with Rolex. The difference was in the movements. Tudor used reliable Swiss calibers from third-party suppliers like ETA to keep costs manageable. These watches were made to be used, not admired from a distance.

Shop vintage Tudor watches

Military Roots and Tool Watch Credibility

In the 1950s, Tudor began proving itself in the field. The Tudor Oyster Prince was worn during the British North Greenland Expedition in 1952, where it survived extreme cold and harsh terrain.

Then came the Tudor Submariner in 1954. It looked a lot like its Rolex sibling, but had its own identity. These were real dive tools used by naval forces around the world. The French Marine Nationale relied on Tudor Subs for decades, often with fabric straps, no-date dials, and minimalist layouts. They were issued, used, and sometimes abused, which is part of what makes surviving examples so desirable today.

Collectors love these watches because they are honest. They were built to do a job, and they did it well.

Browse Tudor Submariners and military watches

The Black Bay Era and Tudor’s Resurgence

After a quiet stretch in the 1990s and early 2000s, Tudor relaunched internationally in 2010 with a new identity rooted in its tool watch history. This was not just a marketing reset. Tudor started building watches that collectors actually wanted to wear.

The breakout model was the Black Bay, launched in 2012. It pulled vintage cues like snowflake hands, an oversized crown, a domed crystal, and no crown guards into a clean modern diver. It looked like something from the past, but wore like a modern classic.

More hits followed:

• Black Bay Fifty-Eight. A 39 millimeter version with thinner proportions and vintage feel

• Pelagos. A titanium dive watch with 500 meter water resistance and helium escape valve

• Black Bay GMT. A red and blue bezel traveler with a true GMT movement

• Ranger. A clean field watch modeled after the original explorer’s Tudor

• Heritage Chrono. A bold chronograph inspired by 1970s motorsport models

Shop modern Tudor Black Bay models
View our Pelagos and dive-ready Tudors

In-House Movements and Strong Specs

In 2015, Tudor began rolling out its own in-house movements. This was a big leap forward and helped set the brand apart.

The MT series movements offer:

• COSC-certified accuracy

• 70 hour power reserves

• Silicon balance springs that resist magnetism

• Tough construction that is made for everyday use

These movements brought Tudor up to par with other luxury brands like Omega and IWC while keeping prices much more reasonable.

Why Collectors Keep Coming Back to Tudor

Tudor fills a very real space in the market. It is a no-nonsense watch with clean design, great reliability, and actual heritage behind it. Whether you are just getting into watches or already deep in the vintage world, there is something here for you.

Collectors love Tudor for these reasons:

• True history and real-world use

• Excellent wearability and comfort

• Strong value both new and pre-owned

• Vintage character with modern specs

• A clear, consistent design identity

See all pre-owned and new Tudor watches

Final Thoughts from Belmont Watches

Tudor has done something a lot of brands struggle with. It respects its past, but is not stuck in it. The watches are clean, capable, and built to be worn — not just collected. For us, that is exactly the kind of watch we like to recommend.

At Belmont, we carry a rotating mix of Tudor watches, including vintage Submariners, Black Bay divers, and Pelagos models. We also offer a range of handmade straps that work beautifully with Tudor’s case shapes and tool watch personality.

If you want a watch with real history and no wasted details, Tudor is a brand worth exploring.

Browse our full Tudor collection
We are always happy to help you find the one that fits.