Breitling Italian Army Issued Chronograph 817

Each piece was designed to meet the Italian Military’s “Cronometro da Polso” or “CP-1” requirements and unlike numerous military examples, were never commercially available to civilians.

Manufactured in circa 1975 for the helicopter pilots of the Italian army, the Ref. 817 is an elusive tool watch, with a total production run thought to number between 500 and 1,000 examples. Highly legible, purpose-built, special, and indeed beautiful, it’s become a military watch classic, beloved by collectors the world over.

This particular example is housed in a 39.5mm stainless steel screw-back case with pump pushers, an oversized crown, and a bidirectional rotating black aluminum timing bezel. It features a matte black Tritium dial with ‘Bund’-style Arabic indices, a matching ‘sword’ handset, an outer minute track with 5-minute scale, and a dual-register chronograph layout. 

Powered by the Valjoux Calibre 236 hand-cranking movement, this piece comes fitted with a correct, Japanese-made, elasticized stainless steel bracelet.

Information:

Circa: 1970's

Reference: 817 - Italian Military Issue

Case: Unpolished - 39.5mm x 14mm Thickness x 22mm Lug Width

Lug to Lug: 20mm

Bracelet: Maurman 'Flex' Elasticized Stainless Steel Bracelet

Caseback: 806 stamped

Movement: Valjoux Calibre 236 - Manual - +7 s/d 300 Amp

Glass: Plexiglass

Condition:

Case is in great condition with no notable marks and only light micro wear. Strap is in great shape. Bezel is in great shape. Dial is in great shape matching hand patina.  Hands are in great shape with no notable wear. No service history but running +7 s/d 300 Amp.

History of Breitling 

Breitling, founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling in Switzerland, has a rich history of innovation in watchmaking. The company quickly established itself as a leader in precision timers and chronographs, introducing significant advancements such as the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher in 1915. Under the leadership of three generations of the Breitling family, the brand became renowned for its aviation timepieces, launching the iconic Navitimer in 1952. Despite challenges from quartz technology in the 1970s, Breitling adapted and continued to innovate, introducing models like the Chronomat and Aerospace that combined traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology.

In recent years, Breitling has undergone a strategic repositioning under new ownership and leadership. While honoring its heritage, the brand has embraced modern design, sustainability, and digital innovation. Breitling has restructured its product portfolio around Air, Land, and Sea categories, reintroduced classic collections, and launched eco-friendly initiatives. The company has also ventured into digital realms with blockchain-based watch passports and a subscription service. These efforts have positioned Breitling as a forward-thinking brand that balances its storied past with contemporary consumer needs and values.